Vall de Peguera in the Parc Nacional d'Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici is a breathtaking and challenging hiking route with an elevation gain of over a thousand metres over a distance of eight kilometres. The route is via the Peguera River valley from Espot, Spain, to the first of many great lakes that form The 141 km² Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park.
The trailhead starts at the edge of Espot village and we get to it from the parking area at the entrance to the village on the LV 5004 road by crossing the village via a small street called calle de Peguera. Admire the pretty stone houses heading up to the start of the Camí de Peguera. When you leave the road onto a gravel track there is a campsite on the right, Camping la Torre.
This trail is well signposted and is part of the GR 11 long distance path (Gran Recorrido 11) trail to Estany Negre de Peguera and Refugi Josep Maria Blanc. Along the initial part of the gravel track you will see a waterfall on the right. Shortly after the waterfall the path transitions onto a footpath and settles into a steady uphill climb through shrub and shady woodlands into the Vall de Peguera valley. the green trees provide plenty of cover as the trail parallels the Riu Peguera (river). At several points you will cross the river via wooden footbridges which give excellent views of the river passing over the rocky bed. Keep an eye out for a large waterfall on the left.
After about three kilometres, the path emerges from the forest onto small mountain plains that are very swampy so the path traverses via wooden planks to pass a stone farmhouse ruin. From here the path enters the forest again and continues upwards another one and a half kilometres to get to Lake Lladres Estany de Lladres, a dammed lake with a small hydroelectric plant called Presa de la Font Grassa. This is usually where I stop to take a short break and a snack.
The path is now via a gravel road and from here on up the tree canopy is a lot thinner. After about another kilometer of this trail we pass from a distance the Trescuro lake, Estany de Trescuro where the trail climbs further along a zig zagging route for one and a half kilometers. As the trail levels out you see the corner wall of the Estany Tort de Peguera reservoir. Here most hiking trails follow the gravel road but I walk along the top of the dam and follow a small path parallel to the lake until I get to the Refugi JM Blanc (Mountain hostel). In the summer when the Refugi is open it is possible to get a beer, wine or something stronger here and sit at the edge of the lake enjoying the panoramic lake view.
Note: that it is not permitted to swim in any of the lakes in Aigüestortes Natural park and if your caught you will get fined therefore I cannot recommend swimming infront of the refugi.
From Refugi Josep Maria Blanc I followed the gravel road for 350 metres to get to Estany Negre de Peguera. Despite its name, this lake does not have dark water but perfect blue crystal clear glacial water. From the small dam wall, the path continues to zig zag up the mountain to the right of the dam before dropping down to a spot next to the water. This is another discrete place that I like to take a rest and admire the picture perfect landscapes of the lake surrounded by granite mountain views reflecting on the lake with conifers all around.
The Estany Negre de Peguera is the turnaround point of this route and I returned to Espot via the same path that I used to ascend. The Aigüestortes Vall de Peguera is a challenging 15km circular route that I have done twice, once in August and once in early spring with snow on the upper part of the trail.
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Allow 7 to 9 hours to complete this route.
Aim to start the route around 10 am to have time to go all the way to Estany de Negre.
Alternatively, this can be done as a two day Aigüestortes hike staying overnight in Refugi Josep Maria Blanc. This gives you more time to explore further up the trail past Estany de Negre to enjoy more breath-taking views.
I have always done this hike as a one day route, forming day one of a weekend getaway, staying overnight in an apartment in Espot and hiking to Maurici Lake and Ratera Waterfall on the second day.
This route is great with a dog and I have done it twice with a fury friend. The route is uphill all the way to the refugi JM Blanc which is pysically demanding both for humans and dogs. Note that there could be snow and the lakes iced over up to the beginning of May at the altitide of the refugi so ensure your dog does not get cold or frozen paw pads.
Foliage is scrub and trees with short section through some pines. The chances of finding poisonous Pine Processionary Caterpillars is low but diligence is advised in spring and summer.
This is a medium-hard walking route. I always do it with a small rucksack of the essentials and first aid kit. Emergency waterproof/windproof jacket is advised because it can be windy in these high mountains.
I would start the route with 2 to 3 litres of water, knowing that there is plenty of fresh water in the lakes.
Address: Espot, Lleida. 25597
There is a Bus service for the skiing season that goes to Port Ainé and Espot Ski resorts if you book it in advance. There is no public transport option to get to Espot in the summer.
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A challenging 15km circular hike from Espot to black lake, Refugi JM blanc & Tort de Peguera lake in Aigüestortes natural park via the Peguera river valley
Distance: 15.12 Km
Difficulty: Moderate
Return Travel Fare: €20.00
Transport Network: Car
Mountain Forecast weather for Aigüestortes Pic Morto
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