This three day walking (and swimming!) activity that traverses what I think is the most beautiful part of the GR-92, Camí de la Ronda Hiking trail between Palamós and Begur on the Costa Brava. The route passes via many small coves and beaches as well as the most stunning white fishing villages such as S'Alaguer, Callella de Palafrugell, llafranc, Tamariu, Aiguablava, Fornells, Sa Tuna and Aigiafreda before turning inland to finish at Begur.
This blog covers day two from Callella de Palafrugell to Aiguablava or Fornells, a distance of 11km. Overnight accommodation can be an apartment, hotel or camping.
When talking about place names, I use local Catalan vocabulary:
Leave Calella de Palafrugell via steps at the end of Platja Els Canyissos and follow the path up onto the paved coastal path along the rocky bluffs passing a monument of iron stacked books called Mirador de Carles Sentís. Along this section of path are many great viewpoints and paths lined with colourful Mediterranean flowers as well as the la Torre Calella de Palafrugell, today is in private hands. As the path curves round Llafranc Headland there is a viewpoint, Mirador de Llafranc, which overlooks another spectacular fishing town.
Llafranc is a small town that could be an overnight stop because it has plenty of hotels and hostels. The Platja de Llafranc is a wide beach with many seafront restaurants such as Nomo Mar, a Japanese fusion restaurant. At the end of Llafranc beach the continuation of the GR-92 trail is via some stairs leading up to a viewpoint overlooking the bay and town. Unfortunately, this section of the trail is via a road passing through a hill top urbanisation due to the headland Cap de Sant Sebastià having being purchased by wealthy private citizens. However, this section lasts only about 30 minutes before arriving at the summit Far de Sant Sebastià converted into a modern restaurant called Far Nomo which is a sister restaurant to Nomo Mar. Also on this headland is a traditional Catalan farmhouse that has been converted into El Far Hotel Restaurant which has a terrace bar with great views over the sea.
It is at this summit behind the hotel restaurant where there the historic monuments of Ermita de Sant Sebastià de la Guarda and Torre de Sant Sebastià de la Guarda. These 18th Century monuments are open to the public and the hermitage is a beautiful small chapel while the tower is a museum space where you can enjoy the 360-degree panoramic views from the roof terrace. I recommend paying the 3-euro fee to visit the tower. Next to this small castle is Poblat Ibèric de Sant Sebastià de la Guarda where the foundations and street layout can be seen.
Leaving the castle and Iberian village the path follows the coastline for a while before heading inland into a pine forest and passing a wheat field. It is here that the route takes a sharp turn to the right to follow a forested river valley down to a small hut which as you pass, you are greeted with the view of Cala Pedrosa, a cliff lined cove with a spectacular stoney beach. I recommend swimming here at this intimate little bay. The hut at the back of the beach also has a small restaurant serving snacks. This is a beach that is hard to leave because of the beauty and freshness of the water but when you do leave take the stairs cut into the rock on the left side of the beach (looking at the sea) and follow the pine forest path parallel to the coast and rocky bluffs.
The forestall trail transitions into a paved path which signals the imminent arrival at another postcard picture perfect coastal village. The path steps down onto Platja Dels Liris signalling our arrival at Tamariu. A small village with a fishing boat pier to the north of Platja de Tamariu. Tamariu has a number of hotels and hostels as well as a campsite and when I did this route, I chose to split it into two days and stay here. I hade dinner in a beach front restaurant overlooking the bay at night. The sound of the waves lapping against the rocks and beach with the silence of the night was very relaxing and I slept so well after walking 18 Kilometres. However, I recommend doing the route as a three-day adventure because the distances over two days did not allow me to spend enough time at all of the beautiful beaches and I had to force my pace to reach Tamariu in time for dinner. On Platja de Tamariu is Kayaking Costa Brava Tamariu.
After Tamariu we leave the town walking not via the coast, but following a road inland into a pine forest. This is again to avoid a section of the coastal path which is not continuous but has been cut by urban developments of private houses. However, as we ascend up in this pine forest there are some great views from a summit viewpoint. Exiting the pine forest onto a road takes the route down into Aiguablava which as the name suggests has some of the bluest water I have ever seen. Platja d'Aiguablava is a rocky cliff surrounded cove with a beautiful sandy beach backed by an area of restaurants and bars like Toc al Mar which is renowned for its tasty seafood dishes and wine selection. I recommend eating here.
If you are doing this as my recommended three-day route, it is at Aiguablava That I recommend spending a night layover. This bay only really has one hotel, Parador d'Aiguablava. Alternatively, the adjacent village of Fornells has several small boutique hotels, hostels and a campsite.
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See the Costa Brava Camí de la Ronda I getting to section for information about bus connections in the towns along this route.
In general Dogs are not permitted on beaches in the summer season between 1st June to the last Sunday in September, except in designated dog zones. Day two of this three day route involves walking along beaches, none of which are designated dog zones so complete the route with your dog outside of the summer season.
This route is a combination of sandy beaches and rocky paths through pine forests so in the spring, summer or early autumn you may see poisonous Pine Processionary Caterpillars. The route will not present any difficulties for your dog.
This route involves walking along beaches and close to the shore so I put things that I want to remain dry inside waterproof bag inside my rucksack. I keep my phone inside an IPX8 case so I can take photos from the sea.
I recommend taking 2 - 3 litres of water to complete this leg of the route.
Address: Callela de Palafrugell, Callela de Palafrugell. 17210
See the Costa Brava Camí de la Ronda I getting to section for imformation about bus conections in the towns along this route.
Day 2 of a three day walking route along the most beutiful section of the costa Brava via the GR-92 trail known as la Ronda. Start in Callella de palafrugell and end in Aiguablava or Fornells.
Distance: 10.85 Km
Difficulty: Easy
Return Travel Fare: N/A
Transport Network: N/A
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