This three day walking (and swimming!) activity that traverses what I think is the most beautiful part of the GR-92, la Ronda between Palamós and Begur. The route passes via many small coves and beaches as well as the most stunning white fishing villages such as S'Alaguer, Callella de Palafrugell, llafranc, Tamariu, Aiguablava, Fornells, Sa Tuna and Aigiafreda before turning inland to finish at Begur.
This blog covers day one from Palamós to Callella de Palafrugell, a distance of 12km. Overnight accomodation can be an apartment, hotel or camping in Callella de Palafrugell.
When talking about place names, I use local Catalan vocabulary:
Arriving at Palamós, Sarfa bus stop is 650 metres from the start of the route at Marina de Palamós leaving the town in a northerly direction picking up the GR-92 route that takes us to a small hamlet of fisherman’s houses in Cala Margarida. Take the road behind these houses into a pine forest and follow the path on top of the rocky coastline. At the Gros Cap bluffs there is a viewpoint overlooking Platja de la Fosca, A long sandy beach curving around Cala de la Fosca and protected on it´s northern end by Castell de Sant Esteve de Mar where the trail continues along a paved path around the rocky headland into Cala s'Alguer, a collection of about ten whitewashed houses sitting on a pine tree shaded beach.
Leaving s'Alguer via a stone path through the small village and entering a forested trail around another headland takes the route to another wide cove called Platja de Castell where you can find Kayaking Costa Brava Castell. Follow the beach and pick up an ascending path parallel to the rocky headland where at the highest point is the ruins of Poblat Ibèric de Castell and a viewpoint looking down on Playa Cala Foradada. This tiny cove is theoretically only reachable via the sea but I did see some teenagers attempt a very steep path down from the top!
After the Poblat Ibèric the trail enters a long section of coastal path with pine forests and stunning coves such as Cala dels Canyers and Cala Corbs. Between these two tiny rock coves as the path ascends and descends there is a headland called Punta dels Canyers which has a path through the ruins of what appears to be a house to the end of the headland (you can still see tiles on the floor). I recommend walking out here to appreciate the views of this spectacular natural coastline. Continuing along the cliff top forestall path as it weaves along the coastline takes a dip down onto Cala Estreta nudist beach. When you see it in the photo it even has the outline of finely shaped buttocks. This is the first place I chose to stop and swim because of the amazing natural beauty of this wild beach.
The trail at this point continues north along Cala Estreta into Cala Roca Bona and at the end of this beach ascends into a cliff top forested path that leads down onto Cala Cap de Planes and a little further along the path Cala del Crit. After descending some steps down onto Crit beach, the path goes through an eye shaped opening in the cliffs. Crit beach is another great place to swim. Follow the steps up next to the white beach house and pick up the trail as it follows a forest path that strays a little inland around some unfortunately located private houses. Following a rural road passing the privately owned Castell de Cap Roig and some wheat fields, take the descending road down through a housing urbanisation to Cala el golfet. At this beach there is a paved path along the cliffs that disappears into some tunnels that are built under private houses as mitigation to restore Camí de la Ronda back to the original coastal path.
The GR-92 Ronda trail follows a paved path that oscillates along the coast bordered by pine trees, small coves and the perfect blue Mediterranean Sea before arriving at the jewel of the Mediterranean that is the fishing town of Calella de Palafrugell. I recommend making this the overnight stop for this section of the trail because of the abundance of hotels and great restaurants. My personal recommendation is La Blava restaurant in a whitewashed fisherman's house overlooking Platja de les Barques. Phone ahead to book a table. After dinner the natural beauty of the town and natural beaches is the perfect place for a stroll and midnight swim on one of the beaches: Platja del Port Pelegrí, la platgeta de calella, Cala del Port de Malaespina, Platja del Canadell or Platja Els Canyissos are all beautiful.
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My Recommended places to swim between Palamós and Calella de Palafrugell on day one are on Playa del Castell, Cala d'en Remedon, Playa del Crit and Playa d'en Calau.
Take at least 3 litres of water and a full bottle of sun cream.
In general Dogs are not permitted on beaches in the summer season between 1st June to the last Sunday in September, except in designated dog zones. This route involves walking along beaches, none of which are designated dog zones so complete the route with your dog outside of the summer season.
This route is a combination of sandy beaches and rocky paths through pine forests so in the spring, summer or early autumn you may see poisonous Pine Processionary Caterpillars. The route will not present any difficulties for your dog.
This route involves walking along beaches and close to the shore so I put things that I want to remain dry inside waterproof bag inside my rucksack. I keep my phone inside an IPX8 case so I can take photos from the sea.
I recommend taking 2 - 3 litres of water to complete this leg of the route.
Address: Palamos Sarfa Estacion Bus, Palamós. 17230
See the Costa Brava Camí de la Ronda I getting to section for information about bus connections in the towns along this route.
Day 1 of a three day walking route along the most beutiful section of the costa Brava via the GR-92 trail known as la Ronda. Start in Palamos and end in Callella de palafrugell.
Distance: 11.77 Km
Difficulty: Easy
Return Travel Fare: €17.45
Transport Network: Moventis Bus
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